Friday, November 1, 2013

Bocas Del Toro - Isla Colon



Bocas Del Toro

November 2013


I had been wanting to go on an adventure for some time. By myself. Since I love to surf, I originally decided on Costa Rica. After talking to friends, I got the recommendation of Bocas Del Toro for some great surf. I also had planned on going somewhere for 2 - 3 months so I could have a life-changing experience and work on my spanish. 

For this reason, I didn't check the surf report. 

I didn't think twice about going by myself until I was dropped off by my mom at the Phoenix Airport. At this time, I bawled like a baby because I wasn't able to say goodbye to my dad, and who really knew if I would ever come back? Fortunately, I ran into a couple friends at LAX from SLC headed to costa rica as well, and the nerves went away completely.

Here is an overview of my entire trip:




I flew into to San Jose, Costa Rica as it was the closest airport to Bocas. I then took a taxi to the bus station, and a bus to the border. At the border, it was very confusing. First you stood in line on the CR side and walked across the bridge.  Then you were ushered along (by locals?) to a small office to pay 3 dollars. Then you stood in another line where Panamanian officials would or would not grant you entry. The requirements for entry change often, but must include, at the very least, a return bus ticket home. 

This is the bridge at the border. Sometimes I like to think that since tourists use something, due to liability issues, it should be pretty safe. But this isn't the case. Watch your step. 





A word about traveling in Costa Rica/Panama: I thought it would be super touristy, and my sad spanish skills would be buoyed by the many americans traveling with me.....  There were none. There were no Americans or English speakers of any kind on my bus to the border. I needed that spanish. There was some confusion with my bus ticket, as I had purchased it through an agency previous to the trip.  Long story short, I was scammed. I'm over it, but just don't book with costaricajust4u.com. Seriously. 

It isn't impossible to navigate through central america with no spanish, though. Every time you arrive at a bus station, you will probably have someone asking you where you are headed and they will direct you to your next bus. 

After another bus ride and then a long boat ride, I arrived on Isla Colon. I was in a hurry to find a place to stay since I had all of my luggage with me and had been traveling now for almost 24 hours straight. I brought way too much stuff, since I thought I was going to be in one spot for the whole trip. All the backpackers judged me and my rolling suitcase :(

I took this photo the first night in Bocas.  I immediately posted it to Facebook, so that other people would think I was having an amazing time. In reality, I was miserable my first night! And so, so hot.



Let's talk about the weather. So hot and humid, all the time, with no relief. So you just sweat and that's what you do. Then you begin to get used to it. I now understand that Bocas is more of a "party island".  People come for the nightlife. There are tons of bars, and they all host ladies' nights, where ladies drink for free! So essentially, a "lady" could drink free every night of the week. 

I didn't like this place. And I had planned on spending 2 months here??? To make matters worse, there was no surf whatsoever for the next week or so.  My best day on Bocas was the day I had a bicycle. I rode it to yoga in the morning. Then I rode to the market on Friday, Green Day - the only day you can buy fresh spinach. Then I rode it to spanish class in the afternoon. There are taxis on the island, which can take you down the street for 2 dollars. I believe that is the white girl tourist price. 

The food was also surprising. Fresh fruits and vegetables were scarce. I had imagined eating clean and being lean during my time in Panama, but it was pretty much processed food the whole time. The food at restaurants was not cheaper than in the U.S., and not any better. It is an island, so everything must be boated in, hence the higher prices. 

I met some great people in Bocas, especially my BFF Callum from Australia. We biked around the island and we found the more mellow side which was much prettier and friendlier to the surf-minded. I will definitely be staying there next time I go to Bocas, which probably will be never. We had heard about some climbing near Boquete, which was supposed to be a nice town in the mountains anyway, so we decided to do that while waiting for the surf. 

Found this gem inside the bathroom at a dance club. 





Oh yes. There was dancing. The sweatiest dancing of your life, so 
that occasionally you had to jump into the ocean. But most places 
have the water lit up, so it's really breathtaking. At one point, I was swimming at night, and someone that worked at the hostel told me to get out of the water. I got out and he said he saw a large ray swim by. 

This was no surprise because I always know things are near me in the ocean. 







Boquete


Boquete

Leaving Bocas was a turning point for me. Instead of vacationing, I would be backpacking - which is really what I should have planned on all along. Everyone should make the time to have this experience. Boquete is a really charming town. After baking in Bocas, the weather was cool and perfect. It is on the edge of a rainforest so it is beautiful. They had a great hostel, mamallena's , so by all accounts I was happy. Don't I look happy? I had just gone to the bakery so yes, yes I was. 



The Climbing

It's interesting but since we didn't know where the climbing was located, we had to book a tour. If you want to do anything in Panama, you have to book a tour. Believe me, it went against everything I believe in to pay someone to show me where to climb, but I have to say it was worth it. 

Mostly because we went back on our own, once we knew where it was. Also, I got to climb with the premier rock climber of Panama Cesar Melendez, who was an exceptionally nice guy. This type of climbing is so fun!!! The water was warm, and every time you fell, you'd have to let the current take you downstream and hike back up. 

There were biting fish though, so that was extra incentive not to fall. 

This is Callum jumping the gap. He bruised his heel pretty good on this one. 




This is frog that had gotten inside the house. 



Here is an outfit I thought I would wear while out on the town in Boquete. Due to space constraints, this jacket did not make it home with me. Quite sadly. 



All in all, I adored Boquete, and the scenery from Boquete to Gualaca, where we climbed, was my favorite in all of Panama. I wish I had more photos to show you, but I just didn't carry my phone around. There is something about a pure experience that I love, knowing the only place it will be documented is in my head.

And yet, I'm documenting it now. . . with more words than necessary. . .



Santa Catalina

Santa Catalina

At the hostel in Boquete, I ran into a group that I had met in Bocas, two guys from Amsterdam, and a girl they were traveling with from Taiwan. I was telling them about my surfing woes, and they said that they were headed to Santa Catalina, a little surf town. This is the second time I had heard it mentioned so I thought, why not? It was a whole day of travel by bus, but it was sure to be fun. 

But it meant I had to say goodbye to my friend, who was headed back to Bocas. I hate saying goodbye to people with the realization that it is very likely you may not see them for a long time, if ever. 

Meeting different people is the best part about backpacking, but leaving them is the hardest. No. . . actually the bathrooms are the hardest. 

A word about the bathrooms

Most were not that bad. But never once in my time in central america did I encounter what I like to call the trifecta - #1 a flushing toilet. #2 - toilet paper. #3 - running water to wash your hands.

Pick two. 

And you can forget about soap. You want something to dry your hands with??? Don't make me laugh. 

It seems like I have a lot to complain about while describing Panama. I don't want you to think that I didn't love every second of it. It was the most exhilarating experience to think everyday, where should I explore? Should I head to Columbia or back to Costa Rica? 

But when I found Santa Catalina, I knew I was home. I just nestled right in there and didn't know if I would leave. SC is a one road town. You have to zoom in 20 times on google maps for it even to show up. But it has a legitimate surf break, as evidenced by this  link.  Link not working.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usftNwlHgXA&feature=youtu.be

More about surfing later. On with the story! As the four of us arrived at the end of a long day on buses, it began pouring rain. We tried to find a hostel that suited all of our needs but in the end we just had to get out of the rain. I knew my pack had a rain cover, but I couldn't find it, and in fact, did not find the rain cover until four months later. In my pack

Oh, this is just a beautiful view of the ocean at sunset.. from our room.. for $17 a night. I mean, I did have to share it with people I barely knew, but who cares? They just happened to be awesome!


We went on a boat ride to the island of Coiba, wherein there lives a crocodile. Which you can sometimes see. I wasn't hugely impressed by this can't-miss attraction, but I was thoroughly impressed with the ride. We went snorkeling in a few different places and it was the greatest thing ever. Above the water, you had no idea. As soon as you put your head under... BOOM. A trillion fish. So cool. My friend Ramon taught me how to dive while snorkeling, something I had never tried. 

This is a photo taken by Ramon, illustrating that very skill. 



So much fun! Unfortunately, there were tiny jellyfish that you couldn't see or avoid. So you just got used to the little shocks and welts. NBD. Or, actually, NFP. (normal for panama). 

This photo makes me dizzy.




In SC in November, the rainy season is ending. It would rain most afternoons. I know it's surprising, but I really don't have a complaint about that. 

We spent a few nights on the porch, watching the storms, playing cards, eating pineapple, and speaking terrible spanish. 



Surf Lyfe

The Day That We Moved Hostels

This was an auspicious day. It was the day we moved to the Oasis Surf Camp. Our friends from Amsterdam had gone home. My taiwanese friend and I decided to continue sharing rooms, because it's cheaper that way. I convinced her to switch hostels because I wanted to be right on the beach. This turned out to be the best decision we could have made. 

First off, Oasis is separated from the rest of SC by a river that is shallow when it is low tide but quite deep at High Tide. It was an ominous thing, this high tide. Oasis really became more of an island at high tide. You pretty much stayed on the island at high tide. Mostly because of the crocodiles.....

You'd think with all the tourists, they might just build a walking bridge. Just a thought. But there is no grocery store, no ATM, and horrifically spotty wi fi. I happen to like it that way. Except for the internet.

The rise of High Tide often gave rise to the Quest for Internet Connection. 

And Everything was Epic and Capitalized.

The point of me telling you about High Tide is to set the scene for me, carrying all my luggage atop my head, while wading in neck-deep crocodile water in order to get across. 

All worth it for a little bungalow on the beach. 



The view from inside



Here are a few more photos of SC

My favorite café. That's not me, just a random that has no idea she's on my famous blog.









Our first night at Oasis surf camp was nothing short of amazing. There were only 3 other guests besides the two of us. We all ate dinner together and joked about it being very much like a murder mystery. We came up with a plot and various twists and turns and called it... 

wait for it...

High Tide.

Some of us decided to surf. I've never surfed at night before, but you know I wanted to even before I knew how to surf. Thanks to the brilliant movie "Point Break".  What I didn't realize was that the water was bioluminescent. You can read about that here, but basically it means that as you paddle and surf, you light up the water! Seriously! Watch this video because it does a great job of showing what I mean. Except in Panama, it lit up green, not blue. 

It was my favorite memory of Panama. 

P.S. Why none of my links work, I don't know. I follow directions. 


Post for Surf Nerds

Unnecessary Detail about Surfing in Santa Catalina

If you're not into surfing, feel free to skip this post. 

SC has two places to surf: the point break, and the beach break. The beach break is located at the very end of the road, right in front of Oasis surf camp. You can surf everyday here, it's never flat! It might not be great everyday, but it's good enough. It can be sloppy and the rides may not be longest, but there is fun surfing to be had. I surfed at least twice a day, everyday. 

I rented a board from Rancho Estero for about $10 a day. One of the best things about going to Panama on a trip is that they use American dollars everywhere. 

My goal for the trip was to surf the point. I was a little bit terrified because the wave can be big, and the water is shallow with a rocky reef. I'm not an absolute beginner surfer, but I'm not that good, either. Every time I asked for info on surfing there, I got these condescending looks from other girls.... "uh, it's a pretty advanced wave, you know". 

Well, I knew I wasn't going to go by myself, so I would just wait until I found someone willing to take me. 

So I spent a week surfing at the beach break and got really comfortable with my board, and could catch pretty much everything. I met a lot of friends surfing there and we would surf together everyday. One day my friend Agustin said I was ready for the point. I felt kind of like Karate Kid. 

We got up super early the next day and walked to the where the paddle out starts. The paddle out is really long, maybe a 20 min. paddle. I was incredibly nervous as we got to the line up. I hate trying to catch waves with the really good, local surfers. It just adds the pressure of trying to not look stupid with the pressure of trying to not die. 

But Agustin told me I wouldn't die. He just said if he said to paddle  for a wave then I better really paddle for it. He said the waves are big, but they are easy to catch and you have a lot of time to set yourself up. The wave breaks both right and left, but the right is better. 

And it was true, as I was paddling for the wave, it would be HUGE behind me, I would be so scared, but it wasn't that steep. It was easy to get on it, to get up, and then it was a loooong ride. 

It was incredible. I got a good left, and then a super long right, and then I was ready to go because I didn't want to push my luck. I hadn't gotten crushed and I didn't want to. 

Like most places where the wave is great, it gets crowded. There was only 6 or 7 people out with us, and that was almost too many. But you can get up earlier and be okay. Or you can be aggressive and be great :)

But to give you a point of reference I surfed at the beach break the rest of the time, and those waves are better than anything in LA. 

In California, I'm not a surfer. Oh I get in with my board and paddle around, but I really wouldn't call it surfing. I can't wait to plan my next trip to somewhere with warm water!

This is my surfing mentor Agustin from Argentina. 





Wrap Up


This is a whale skeleton. 




Selfie. One of the byproducts of going on vacation by yourself. 




I love these tiny local cemeteries. 





The way I'm standing in this picture reminds me of when I were little and trying to draw people. I would always have them with their hands behind them so I wouldn't have to draw hands.




Some High Tide friends. Trevor & Cindy from Canada, and Yanic from Germany. Who is tall.



At the Lost&Found hostel in the jungle. I tried to wash my hands and there was every species of moth on this mirror. 



I stayed one night at this hostel on the way back to San Jose. The dorm rooms had triple decker bunk beds. The top bunk was ridiculously and dangerously tall. Just when I got all settled in to go to sleep, I pushed my iphone off of the ledge, ha ha. Nothing like a 15 foot drop to test your case's durability. 

This was the bus ride up the pacific coast of Costa Rica. 



Traveling is a total luxury. But it's worth more than a car loan, worth more than any kind of stuff that fills our homes and garages. It's a special sort of education, one that can only leave you more tolerant and more grateful to be a part of this world. 

This place, these people, and what I learned about myself.... all a part of me now.